I am thinking there was a time when the hills around Nashville were indistinct enough. The problem is that you can drive in any direction out of town not knowing if you are on the right interstate or expressway. Searching the geography on either side of the massive roadways does not help, because the low serrations of wooded hills and valleys of one part of this city’s Metro area are indistinguishable from those of any other. Nashville’s concentric suburban sprawl offers little in the way of landmarks; massive prefabricated malls and warehouses look the same on the I-65, the Four-forty or the Twenty-four. A suburb of vinyl houses on the way to Murfreesburo looks pretty much the same as anything in the direction of Ashland City or Springfield. No matter which direction you travel, there is nothing singular or unique in the landscape to help tell where you are.
But as formless as Nashville’s landscape might have appeared to me before, it is not as featureless as what we see now. Lisa is in the passenger seat and I am driving, pushing our dirty white Toyota through the indistinct real estate of northern Georgia. With each mile, it becomes more apparent that whatever might have characterised these hills at one time was obliterated long ago. The land is vast and empty, save for occasional clots of uniform, prefabricated hotels and fast food chains that choke the exits to the interstate. We are on our way to Florida, where Lisa’s parents are spending Christmas in a gated community in Fort Myers, the current foreclosure capital of the U.S. This is not the Christmas either of us had wished for, but we tell ourselves that at least we will be in sunny Florida, and there is the added attraction of abandoned bank buildings, empty strip malls and vacant condominiums. Despite the recession, the asphalt is strung for miles with others leaving the cold Midwest for the Holidays.
Without intended irony, Americans drop the first “t” when they say the word “interstate”, thus situating this network of Eisenhower-era highways at the centre of the country’s psychic structure. As a key to interpreting the United States, the image works; most obviously, there is the empty formlessness of movement and consumption that has always fascinated people in America. The significance of the interstates also resonates in the present, a time when the routes are dominated by long chains of semi-trailers taking plastic goods from China, circulating them to the thousands of outsized big-box stores that surround towns and cities. The roads are a moving index of this trade, with names like Walmart, Lowes, Big Lots and others, painted in huge letters on the sides of the many shipping containers. There is also the transport of food, and here the graphics on the trucks are snappier. Often these trailers are decorated with enormous depictions of ground beef or other cuts of raw meats, attractively arranged. Sometimes a picture of a gargantuan table of cheddar or mozzarella or some other mass dairy food product rattles by at eighty or ninety miles an hour, followed by a rendering of a selection of uniformly soft and crustless breads. Last of all, a truck filled with soft drinks speeds on, and the moveable illustration of the American diet is complete.
As important as the transport of these goods might be to the country’s life, driving the interstates at the end of this century’s first decade reveals the central position of war in American consciousness. From time to time it is possible to glimpse an occasional town spread out along the highway, and sometimes, in a square or park, city fathers have erected some relic of a forgotten war. In this town, there is a rusting nuclear missile; in another, a tank or jet fighter. On the roads themselves, an overwhelming number of the many hundreds of SUVs, pickup trucks and minivans that pass us bear bumper stickers declaring how much this country’s history of militarism has impacted the lives of so many people. Veterans of different wars display certain coloured ribbons; disabled and wounded veterans also have their own colours to choose from. Families with relatives serving overseas have theirs. I do not know for certain if there is a ribbon for those who have lost someone; I have not seen one yet. Perhaps here, at the moment of the most singular and irredeemable loss, the crass commingling of grief and display of support for foreign intervention ends. I would like to think so, but I have been surprised before at how publicly, and how inextricably, Americans live their emotional and military lives.
Around us, evening is falling. The sky is boiling with bright pinks, corals and fuscia. Here too, somewhere north of Tifton, Georgia, a large proportion of the billions of dollars in stimulus money is being spent. As the light fades, we find ourselves squeezed between concrete barriers and different road construction signs and equipment. At this hour, the fatigue of the many drivers begins to show; ahead of us, a semi careens wildly, narrowly avoiding collision with other trucks. Beside us, a trailer drags a chain along the road that sends sparks flying into the air. As the conditions get worse, we switch off the talk radio we’ve been listening to for the last several hours. It is entertaining enough to listen to Rush Limbaugh or Ann Coulter when the roads are clear, but as the stakes get higher, these voices become unbearable. Above us, the sky on either side of the interstate is blocked by an unending succession of massive illuminated billboards, all dozens of metres in the air and each the size of the largest shipping container you could possibly imagine. There are advertisements for restaurants and shops that are literally hundreds of miles away; there are ads for gun shops, massage parlours and churches next to signs with biblical passages or billboards that rail against abortion. Alongside them all, the night is overcome by hundreds of blank, illuminated signs advertising nothing but advertising space.
The next evening we arrive in Fort Myers, pulling off the interstate into that city’s unending swamp of speculation and suburban sprawl. The busless roads are choked with Christmas shopping traffic, and it takes a good deal of time to get past the hundreds of prefab stores and malls to Cinnamon Cove, the gated community where Lisa’s parents are staying for the winter. It is exactly as you might expect, and I will not spend any time describing this featureless place for you. We are exhausted, and after a few drinks Lisa and I fall asleep to the frogless and cricketless silence. Sometime in the middle of the night we are awakened by a terrible stench of sewage so powerful that we can hardly breathe. Lisa tries to shut the window but the smell is everywhere, maybe all over Cinnamon Cove and beyond. Laughing, I ask Lisa not to shut the window, because it is too perfect. Here, just before Christmas, the shit is general throughout America.










